Contemporary Victorian hair styles, inspired by American Horror

What you need:

• Hair Brush
• Tail comb
• Curling iron
• Kirby pins
• U pins
• Hair spray (optional)

How to  :

• Start with the side parting on the top of the head
• Devide the hair into the front and back sections
• On the top of the head , create 3 curls towards one side and one towards the other one, on the other side of the parting. When curling it pull the hair up and roll it with the hair tong nice and tight. When removing the tong, turn it slightly to the other side and remove it slowly.
• By the ears, you can create either 1 or 2 curls towards the face
• The part of the hair you have left behind, curl it in in horizontal way (brick layers). Secure them with hair pins

Hairstyle 1:

• Take all the hair pins from the curls
• Leave the 3 curls from the top of the head for modeling the hairstyle
• Use the hair brush for not pulling out the curls. Carefully brush the top part of the hair. It helps to bring the hair together and also makes the hair to look with more volume 
• Take a piece of hair on the side and roll the hair. Secure the front part of the hair with kirby pins and use the U hair pins to secure the back part (lift the pin up and bring down)
• Arrange the 3 curlsin the way you like

Hairstyle 2:

•  Remove all the kirby pins from the hair
• Use the brush and take a section of hair into your hands. Bring the brush underneath and over the top so to create a nice wave shape. For the front part of the hair

Hairstyle 3:

• To create this hairstyle, after you have brushed through the hair, like in the hairstyle 2, shake the head and...it's done! You can use the wide tooth comb to lift up the hair at the front a bit

Dark eyes and lips

Products:

• Foundation
• Translucent powder
• Dark and light eyeshadows
• Mascara 
• Dark lipstick

How to:

• Apply foundation over the whole surface of the face
• Apply translucent powder
• Start with applying the light colour on the inner corner of the eyes
• Apply the  brown or another colour wich is lighter then black on the outter corner of the eyes and blend it very wel without leaving edges vetween this 2 colours
• Apply the dark colour (black in my case) over the dark colour you applied before
• Blend everything in very well 
• Under the eyebrows apply a really light colour to put in evidence the eye and blen it well
• Make the cotour of the eye on the bottom eye line and over the upper line of the eye
• Apply the mascara on the upper and bottom lashes.

Light scaring, using molds, how to attach the skin and how to colour

Products:

• Ready silicon for making molds
• Translucent powder
• Hazel water
• Small brushes
• Cotton buds
• Supracolor pallete
• Wound filler
• Artificial blood

How to:

• Use the pros-aide to attach the mold
• with the hazel water and cotton buds you smudge the edges of the molds in order not to be seen 
• Start colouring the mold, using different colours from the supra color pallette like reds, blues, blacks, yellows etc
• Fill the mold with fake coaguled blood 
• Put some fake liquid blood over the top to make it look more realistic

Late Victorian Hair

Late Victorian hairstyle are quiet different from the Early Victorian hairstyles. The curls from the ear sides are all gathered at the back. The hairstyles look more sofisticated, quiet bridal even. More curls are seen at the back side of the head and the curls are also that are loosen behind.
  Tools:

• Hair brush
• Tail comb
• Hair pins
• Hot curling iron
• Hair band

How to:

• Start with parting the hair in the middle.
• Section the front part  a tiny bit narrower than in early Victorian Hairstyles. Pin them with hair pins
• Take a small part of the bacl hair and make it a ponytail.
• Take smaller sections of the ponytail and curl them with the hor curling iron
• Make a bun, but making kind of little twists in order that it won't have a perfect round bun.
• The whole back sections you have left, separate them in smaller sections and curl them in vertical way to create those tipical Victorian ringlets
• You need to ad those curls to the back and even to the bun.
• You can also separate those curls you've created. 
• You will create a kind of cascade at the back that goest all the way down.
• In front, with the hair you've cliped before, separate it in more sections and curl them towards the out side.
• The section near the ear separate them in two or more vertical sectionn and curl them in vertical way.
• Star with the bottom and pin them behind toward the bun and leave the curl out. (you can hide the pins in this way and it it the part of the hairstyle that gives you the opportunity to be creative with some fake flowers or something)
• With the other curls do the thame giving just a bit of volume making them soft .

Miss Havisham- continuity image

For my Miss Havisham's continuity image, I tried to create exactly the same look as I did during the firstpart of the assessment, but as I expected it wasn't Exactly the same. There are some small details that make it look different from the previous look.
    Here are the looks (first part and the second one) :

Part 1:

Part 2:

One of the obvious mistakes is the skin base which in the second part is a little bit lighter than in the first one. Anothe mistake is the smudged lips. It is really difficult to create the  same kind of smudgung in exactly the same place with the exacly the same shape. Also, i can notice some difference in the dry skin on the cheek-bone. I exagerated with the red colour in the second part of the assessment, because in the first part is much more skin coloured while in the second part is a bit more red.

    Apart from all these mistakes, I am happy with the work I've done. 

Creating Estella's look

Products:

• Primer
• Foundation (natural skin colour)
• Translucent powder
• Concealer (D5+D7)
• Blusher (Illamasqua)
• Highlighting paòette (Kryolan)
• Mascara
• Lipstick
• Brushes

How to:

• Apply the primer on all the surface of the face
• Apply the foundation, of a natural skin colour all over the face
• Contour with the concealer under the cheek-bones and on the edges of the forehead
• Apply the transliscent powder
• With the Pale tan and the Glamou tan from the Highlighting palette, create a natural look on the eyes going from the lightest colour into the dark one starting from the inner corner of the eye
• Apply the mascara
• Apply some light blush on the cheek-bones going upwards
• apply a natural colour of lipstick

Practice on Miss Havisham's look

Products:

• Duo glue
• Primer
• Foundation
• Concealer (dark for the contouring)
• Translucent powder
• Orange eye-shadow
• Grey eye-shadow
• Blu- purple eyeshadow
• Red Supracolor
• Red lipstick
• Brushes

How to:

• Apply Duo glue on the cheek-bone and let it dry
• Scratch it to make the impression of a very dry skin
• Apply the primer on the surface on the face and neck
• Apply the foundation on all the surface of the face and neck. Make sure the skin tone is going to appear pale
• Make the contouring with 2 different pigments of concealer (D11/ D13). Do it under the cheek-bones and the forehead
• Apply the translucent powder all over the face and neck
• Apply the orange eye-shadow on the eye-socket and on the inner corner of the eye
• Apply the grey eye-shadow over the orange one, exactly on the same place as the previous one
• On the top ogf this 2 eye-shadows, apply the blue-purplee eye-shadow
• Using the red Supracolor, draw a line on the bottom eyeline and on the inner bottom eyeline
• Smudge the bottom eyeline downwards
• Put some red Supracolor in the gaps you've created on the cheek-bone (on the dry skin) and smudge it with the fingers. Do not press too much!
• Put red lipstick on the lips and smudge them as well with the fingers to make them look ald and rubbed off

Victorian hairstyle - Estella

Products:

• Hair brush
• Straightner
• Hair pins
• Hair band
• Hot curlers

How to:

• Section a part of the hair from one ear to another and make a middle parting in it. 
• Pin the 2 parts of hair with hair pins
• All the hair that remained behind, gather it into a ponytail (high, on the middle of the head)
• Leave a small amount of hair from the bottom part of the ponytail for curling it
• with the rest of the hair from the ponytail make a braid an roll it arround the hairband to create a bun. 
• Straight the front parts of the hair and softly put them behind, and pin them into the bun. Make sure the straightened hair cover the ears
• Curl the hair that remained from the bun in 4 vertical curls

Victorian Hairstyle- Miss Havisham

Products:

• Tail-comb
• Kirby pins
• Hairbrush
• Hair band
• Curling iron
• Veil

How to:

• Take a section of hair on the top part of the head that goes from one ear to another and devide it into 2 making the middle parting and pin it with hair clips.
• With the hair that remained on the back part of the hair, section it in a roung way, leaving some hair down
• Gather the diddle part of the hair you've just sectioned, in a ponytail to make a big bun on the to tpop of the head(quite high)
• Make the bun messy, leaving some gaps as well
• The bottom part of the bun- leave it down and curl it
• with the hair that remained on the edges, make curls as in Victorian times
• With the curls behind the ears. separate them and put them on the bun in a messy way
• Curl the front parts of the hair, keeping the middle parting. Curl it in vertical way and go with fingers through it to make it look messy
• Put the veil on the top of the bun using the U-pins

Burns. How to crete using different products?

Burns can be of 4 types:

• Superficial- affects the top layer of skin only. The skin looks red and is mildly painful. The top layer of the skin may peel a day or so after the burn but the underlying skin is healthy. It does not scar. For example: sunburn
• Partial thickness- causes deeper damage. The skin forms blisters and is very raw,red and painful. However, some of the deeper layer of skin is unharmed. This usually means the skin can heal well without scarring unless the area of the burn is large.
• Full thickness-  damages all layers of the skin. The skin is white and waxy or chared black. There may be little or no pain as  the nerve endings are also destroyed
• Electrical burns- usually create damages only inside the body

Products:

•  Gelatine
• Fake blood
• Skin base
• Spayula
• Red colour (supracolour)
• Black colour (supracolor)
• Pin

How to:  Light burn

• Redden the area with make-up
• Sponge on three to four layers of latex, making sure each layer is dry before applying the next one
• Pinch the latex and move it in a circular pattern until it blisters
• Paint under the latex with more make-up

How to: Thick burns using gelatine

• Make a fairly runny gelatine mixture
• Splatter the mixture from about 10 cm above the area- let the mixture run off the spatula and fall onto the skin. The lesion you create must not be too raised
• Redden the area arounf the blisters. Don't make them look too uniform. Colour the skin with skin base 
• Take a pin and push runny of congealed blood under the gelatine mixture
• Add some black colour to the raised edges to make the skin look really burned
• Add some black pousse to the small holes you created with the pin to make it look infected.

This is a burn created with gelatine:

• Mix the gelatine with water and mix it well
• Apply it on the skin and dry it with cool hair dryer.
• Then colour where it's needed with pinkie/ reddish colour. 

Bruises and Black eye

Products:

• Various shades of red
• Blue and dark purple 
• Brown
• Yellowish green
• Yellow

 When creating a bruise it is important to consider what caused the bruise as this could affect the shape and severity. You will be required to create bruising aroung the site of more severe injuries. The bruise is irregularly formed with a depth of colour that fades at the outside edges. The make-up can be applied with sponges, brushes or clean finger tips, and blended very well.

How to:

• Paint crimson-red in the deep corner of the eye socket
• Paint red-crimson under the eye pouch
• Paint deep purple under the lower eye-socket and on the inner corner of the eyebrow and suggest a circle to create and under eye pouch
• Fade out the crimson into a more reddish colour
• Use a greenish tinge under the outside corner of rhe eyebrow and eye
• Use a yellowish tinge out from the green
• If the eye looks too colorfull or the colours looks disjointed, take a stipple sponge and blend. If  you want the bruise to look swollen, apply some Vaseline iver the make-up to create the shiny, streched surfaceof a new bruise.

For dark skin tones, omit the green  and yellow stages and concentrate on using blacks, blues and purples to create the desired effect.